It is time to adjust the tappets as the weather is about to get warmer. Remove the two 10 mm bolts in the red circle. I should have taken more pictures, but there is also a throttle wire stay bolt in the front, so remove that as well (10mm x 1). Remove the two hoses that are stuck in the head cover. and the connector of the throttle valve switch. The connector can be pulled out by removing the U-shaped metal clip with a precision screwdriver. First, loosen the rubber hose band on the turbine side of the intake pipe. Loosen the hose band of the rubber hose on the turbine side, and push it into the throttle side as shown by the red arrow. and push it into the throttle side. Next, loosen the hose band of the rubber hose on the throttle side. Then, turn the hose band of the throttle side rubber hose about 90 degrees as shown by the red arrow. The intake pipe can be pulled out. Then, remove the two 14mm nuts on the head cover. The head cover will come off. Since the adjusting bolt had a pitch of 1mm. If you turn […]
As a collection of tens of thousands of parts, a car is constantly exposed to movement and vibration during use, and it is sometimes said that it needs to be “break in. Many people have heard of “engine break-in”, where the engine is run at a low RPM for a while, but it is a little known fact that there is a similar break-in process for suspensions as well. In this article, we will discuss “breaking in the suspension”. Is it necessary to break-in the suspension? There are pros and cons regarding the need for suspension break-in. However, as it turns out, the suspension needs to be broken in. The suspensions of mass-produced cars are subject to a small amount of error. Therefore, even if the suspension is 100% complete, some amount of driving is necessary before the matching is completed in the assembled state. Therefore, it is necessary to break-in the suspension. In particular, it is a good idea to break in the suspension when you have replaced the stock suspension with an external suspension or dampers. Break-in of the factory installed suspension Some people believe that the factory-installed stock suspension does not need breaking-in, but the stock suspension […]
Figaro has a hose to drain the water that has flowed into the gap between the trunk hangar and the hood. Most of the cases of this hose have not been replaced for 30 years. I think you should replace it immediately. If the drain water does not come out easily, it is highly possible that the hose is clogged. If it is not replaced, it has deteriorated like the state of the attached image. This hose is on the left and right, looking into the trunk. Looking at the removed hose, it was so clogged. Drain water does not flow. That’s why I will replace it. Prepare a hose with an inner diameter of 10 mm and a hose of about 2 m 20 cm. It is a silicon hose. The hose is fairly stiff, but pull it out while twisting it. There are two hoses, so pull out both. After pulling out both, pull up and pull out the lower side as well. After pulling it out, cut the purchased hose according to the length of the existing hose and replace it. When you have finished replacing it, put it back. It has a hose glamp, but it […]
Rust and corrosion of the body You can see the paint floating on the car body. It is due to rust and corrosion. After all there was a hole. That is also left and right. It is recommended to cut the rusted part and work with an iron plate, putty finish & paint, rather than just putty finish & paint. Rust and corrosion on the rear window panel This is a common event in Figaro. Watch out for Figaro, whose rear window panel looks like the image. When it was detached, it was rusted by 30 cm and was tattered and unreproducible. I knew in advance that it couldn’t be repaired, but I didn’t think it was 30 cm. The genuine product is made of iron and no parts are supplied. So I bought a window panel made of resin at the Figaro shop in England. I also bought a hood for replacement. There is also new rust and corrosion on the vehicle body side. There was a hole when I rolled up the rust. I will repair it here as well. The replacement and repair of the rear window and hood has been completed.
Have you ever experienced that when you cross a step with Figaro or Pao, hazards and blinkers turn on even though you are not operating it? My Figaro is so. Therefore, I am worried that the blinker will turn on every time I cross a step. First of all, pull out the lever of the switch. Next, insert a flat-blade screwdriver from below to remove the decorative panel in the foreground. Yes. After that, remove the ring, remove the connector and pull out the switch from the back to complete the removal. I removed the speedometer to ensure workability. The switch on the right is the switch that was removed, and the switch on the left is the switch that was purchased as a spare. As you can see, there is a gap between the base and the main body at the red line. If there is an impact due to this gap, the contacts will turn on without any operation, and the hazards and blinkers will be on. Seen from the side, it looks like this. The repair method is simple, crush the red circle with a vise. Crush it with a vise like this. There are four corners, […]
The natural enemy of cars, especially old cars, is “rust”, isn’t it? If you want to ride for decades to come, you have to protect the body from rust. I often see that the license plate bolts are replaced with stainless steel so that they do not rust, but it is half correct and half incorrect. Every bolt has a nut. The combination of stainless steel bolts and iron nuts causes dissimilar metal contact and attempts to promote the oxidation (rust) of the iron nuts. This is completely meaningless, so if you want to replace it with stainless steel, you have to use a bolt and nut set. For example, in the case of Nissan Figaro, the nut side (stay on the back) of the license plate is made of iron and the nut is welded and cannot be replaced, so it is better to make the bolt made of iron. Bare iron bolts will rust quickly, so use plated bolts. The introduction has become longer, but I will explain how to protect the body. Apply the dissimilar metal contact described earlier to mount the sacrificial electrode. Simply put, a metal that rusts more easily than iron is attached, and […]
I have overhauled the IAA unit several times, but when the electrical load increases, the idle up becomes unsuccessful. I got a valve at an online auction and came today, so I replaced it immediately. By the way, the IAA unit is an abbreviation for idle auto adjust unit and is an automatic idling adjustment device. Today’s cars do various things with one AAC valve, but Figaro has a configuration that makes you feel the transition period of the era of shifting from carburetors with three adjustment devices to injection. Immediately after starting, the air regulator is also involved, so it is a problem that there are many parts and many parts are fragile. For the time being, incorporate and adjust. The green circle is the basic idling adjustment screw. The red is the air flow rate adjustment screw of the idle-up solenoid valve corresponding to the electric load changed this time. Yellow is the air flow rate adjustment screw for the FICD (First Idle Control Device) solenoid valve that supports air conditioner loads. By the way, the method is to close the red and yellow circle screws with the lights and other electrical equipment off and the air conditioner […]
I knew that there was some play in the idler pulley before, so I changed the alternator and then replaced it as well. Idler pulley genuine product. Part number: 11927-VC800 It’s easy to replace. Loosen the nut in the center to free it, so use the adjust bolt below to raise the pulley and remove the belt. After removing the belt, lower the pulley to remove the nut, remove the washer inside like a lid, and remove the pulley. The bearing of the old idler pulley that I removed was still loose. Installation is completed easily in the reverse procedure. Since the bearing is quite loose with respect to the shaft, the backlash is not completely eliminated. I think that it is better to replace the shaft if it seems that the backlash is too bad even if it is replaced. Since this belt only drives the air conditioner compressor, adjustment is completed with moderate tension so as not to overload. It was easy to finish, so I tried “Isn’t it cheaper to replace only the bearins?” From the result, it seems that it is impossible to use hand-held tools. The board was thin, and it was probably baked in, […]
At the time of vehicle inspection, it was pointed out that the power steering belt may be loose and worn, so I checked it. Loosen two fixing bolts to move the power steering pump. First, align the hole of the pulley on the back side of the pulley with the bolt, and insert a 14 mm box wrench. The radiator shroud is an obstacle, but if you press it, it will dent, so I will manage to thrust it. The second can be reached by pushing the box wrench from the bottom of the pulley and from the side. If you loosen the two fixing bolts, the pump will be free, so you can adjust by moving the adjust bolts indicated by the blue arrows. I think it was loosened by turning left and tensioned by turning right. It was easier than I expected, so I took off the belt and inspected it carefully. The ridges of the belt seem to be slightly worn, but there are no cracks at all, so I will reuse it. I would like to change it to a reinforced product such as HKS, but since it can be easily replaced, I will not waste […]
The bare type air cleaner has the problem of sucking hot air. I thought that I wouldn’t mind if I was running with a duct for guiding the wind. However, looking at the ECU data and logs, it was found that even during high-speed cruising, air with an outside temperature of + 20 to 25 ° C was inhaled. In the intake air temperature correction, when the temperature rises by 20 ° C, the fuel is thinned by about 4%, so it cannot be overlooked because the loss is -4 horsepower at 100 horsepower and -24 horsepower at 600 horsepower. When I investigated why breathing hot air, the wind that hit the engine was heated by the fan and diverted to the side, hitting the air cleaner directly. As a countermeasure, we will make a heat shield. Mold with thick paper. I had a sheet metal shop in my neighborhood make it. Aluminum, which is easy to process, is good for DIY, but since it can be cut by a machine, I asked him to make it with a stainless steel plate. I made some adjustments and did some processing myself, but stainless steel is hard to scrape anyway! Aluminum […]
