Nissan Figaro hasn’t been able to raise the water temperature for a while. I thought that the thermostat was stuck open and replaced it. First, prepare the tools. Prepare a 10mm box wrench and ratchet wrench, a flat-blade screwdriver and water pump pliers. First, remove the turbo intake pipe. Remove the drain bolt of the radiator and remove the coolant. You can access the thermostat by removing the cooling water pipe to the thermostat. For the time being, the intake port of the turbo is packed with waste cloth to prevent foreign matter from entering. Thermostat appears if you remove three 10mm bolts. The thermostat is oriented and the TOP stamp is on top. Just in case, apply liquid packing and install it, and then assemble in the reverse order. Put new coolant in the radiator, turn the engine for a while, check that the thermostat opens, check the amount of coolant, and finish! It took about 40 minutes.
About a month has passed since the car was delivered as a used car. From the beginning, I was worried about the abnormal noise from the rear while driving, such as when starting, stopping, or overcoming steps. Possible causes are … 1. I don’t know about Subaru, but the deterioration of the stabilizer link, which is common in Honda cars, etc2. Loose bolts including the upper mount3. The trunk striker is hitting somewhere4. Loads including genuine jacks I tried and errored considering the above causes, but no improvement was made. When the coil spring expands and contracts, a force in the direction of rotation is generated, and I thought that the deviation would generate noise, but it seems to be wrong. When I unload the luggage in the trunk and put your weight on it like straddling a spare tire and shake the car body up and down, the noise is generated. It is a photograph of the rear shock absorber. I tried cleaning the damper part, thinking that the damper was not moving well and there was a sound that would get caught in the seal when it was activated. For cleaning, jack up (you don’t have to remove […]
Replacing the engine mount is a little difficult. Anyone with motivation and patience can do it. The tools are a box wrench and a socket wrench. The smaller the socket, the better. Rigid racks and garage jacks are a must. The rest is a genuine scissors jack. Perform normal jack up. Raise it enough for people to enter. Next, remove the two nuts on the underside of the mount. There are a total of 4 on both the left and right. Then use a scissors jack to raise the engine at the joint between the engine and the mission. It is around the red circle. Raise the engine until the screw heads in this photo come out a little. If you have an engine damper, don’t forget to remove it before raising the engine! In addition, it may be better to remove the intake of the aftermarket product for safety. Remove the four bolts on the driver’s side and engine side shown in this photo. I think that you can take a lot of space by lowering the coupler of the air conditioner cord from the air conditioner compressor and removing it, and by removing the ground wire from the […]
Since the throttle spacer for 5VZ-FE is not sold in Japan, I personally imported the one made by AIRAID from overseas. The contents are as follows.・Spacer body・2 gaskets・Mounting bolts・Promotional stickers・Instructions (not shown in the photo) The work is easy. Remove the throttle from the engine side. Of course, the throttle cannot be removed unless the air intake is removed. Don’t forget the various wires. Install the throttle spacer on the removed throttle side. Don’t forget to install the attached gasket at this time. Then put it back. Since the wire will be pulled by the amount of the spacer, actually step on the accelerator to adjust the play. I think this is all right. Completed by restoring the removed air intake. When I ran after installing it, the response improved dramatically! Since the amount of depression of the accelerator has decreased, fuel efficiency has also improved. I think that it is a part that can be installed without any loss.
