When going straight, I felt that the steering was slightly off to the right. However, most roads are built with a slope to the left. Considering that, I thought this was fine. However, compared to the other two cars in my home, the Prius and the Wagon R, the 350Z still has a strong sense of rightward orientation. So I made fine adjustments with a tie rod. First, the current toe-in measurement. Measure the groove pitch between the left and right tires with a tape measure. I’m worried that this will be not so helpful because the measurement accuracy is low, but I measured it for the time being. As a result of measuring several times, the toe-in was about 0 to 1 mm. In this case, if only the tie rod on the left side is slightly lengthened, it may good. This will increase toe-in, but it is generally said that the larger the toe-in, the better the straightness. My 350Z seems to have a slightly poor straightness, so I’m lucky if this improves even a little. Jack up. Lift the car body so that you can work. I think you can also work by raising it with a […]
Nissan Figaro hasn’t been able to raise the water temperature for a while. I thought that the thermostat was stuck open and replaced it. First, prepare the tools. Prepare a 10mm box wrench and ratchet wrench, a flat-blade screwdriver and water pump pliers. First, remove the turbo intake pipe. Remove the drain bolt of the radiator and remove the coolant. You can access the thermostat by removing the cooling water pipe to the thermostat. For the time being, the intake port of the turbo is packed with waste cloth to prevent foreign matter from entering. Thermostat appears if you remove three 10mm bolts. The thermostat is oriented and the TOP stamp is on top. Just in case, apply liquid packing and install it, and then assemble in the reverse order. Put new coolant in the radiator, turn the engine for a while, check that the thermostat opens, check the amount of coolant, and finish! It took about 40 minutes.
About a month has passed since the car was delivered as a used car. From the beginning, I was worried about the abnormal noise from the rear while driving, such as when starting, stopping, or overcoming steps. Possible causes are … 1. I don’t know about Subaru, but the deterioration of the stabilizer link, which is common in Honda cars, etc2. Loose bolts including the upper mount3. The trunk striker is hitting somewhere4. Loads including genuine jacks I tried and errored considering the above causes, but no improvement was made. When the coil spring expands and contracts, a force in the direction of rotation is generated, and I thought that the deviation would generate noise, but it seems to be wrong. When I unload the luggage in the trunk and put your weight on it like straddling a spare tire and shake the car body up and down, the noise is generated. It is a photograph of the rear shock absorber. I tried cleaning the damper part, thinking that the damper was not moving well and there was a sound that would get caught in the seal when it was activated. For cleaning, jack up (you don’t have to remove […]
Replacing the engine mount is a little difficult. Anyone with motivation and patience can do it. The tools are a box wrench and a socket wrench. The smaller the socket, the better. Rigid racks and garage jacks are a must. The rest is a genuine scissors jack. Perform normal jack up. Raise it enough for people to enter. Next, remove the two nuts on the underside of the mount. There are a total of 4 on both the left and right. Then use a scissors jack to raise the engine at the joint between the engine and the mission. It is around the red circle. Raise the engine until the screw heads in this photo come out a little. If you have an engine damper, don’t forget to remove it before raising the engine! In addition, it may be better to remove the intake of the aftermarket product for safety. Remove the four bolts on the driver’s side and engine side shown in this photo. I think that you can take a lot of space by lowering the coupler of the air conditioner cord from the air conditioner compressor and removing it, and by removing the ground wire from the […]
Since the throttle spacer for 5VZ-FE is not sold in Japan, I personally imported the one made by AIRAID from overseas. The contents are as follows.・Spacer body・2 gaskets・Mounting bolts・Promotional stickers・Instructions (not shown in the photo) The work is easy. Remove the throttle from the engine side. Of course, the throttle cannot be removed unless the air intake is removed. Don’t forget the various wires. Install the throttle spacer on the removed throttle side. Don’t forget to install the attached gasket at this time. Then put it back. Since the wire will be pulled by the amount of the spacer, actually step on the accelerator to adjust the play. I think this is all right. Completed by restoring the removed air intake. When I ran after installing it, the response improved dramatically! Since the amount of depression of the accelerator has decreased, fuel efficiency has also improved. I think that it is a part that can be installed without any loss.
See the article below for how to remove the retractable headlight assembly. Remove the two screws and disassemble the switch. There is a black dirt on the contact. Especially, black dirt are attached to the central contact and the inner contact. Clean this with a waste cloth. It has become clean. With this, I connected 12V and confirmed the operation, but it stopped at a certain point on the up side. Further verification. Even if you look at the circuit diagram, it’s a simple circuit, so what’s wrong? There is no problem because the relay clicks. Probably due to poor contact. The operation of the retractable light is like this. A short circuit between the red circle in the middle and a blue circle on the inside is a half-turn up operation, and a short circuit between the red circle in the middle and the yellow circle on the outside is a down operation. How do you control it … The blue circle on the circumference of the inner terminal has no copper plate and is disconnected from the middle terminal. This is the position where the motor should stop working. At that time, the terminal in the middle and […]
The left side of the RX-7’s retractable headlights has stopped working. If you move it up and down manually, the motor will occasionally react. After removing the bezel of the light, remove the headlight cover while raising and lowering the light. Remove the two bolts indicated by the red circles in the image. Remove the two bolts on the back side indicated by the red circle. When you’re done, remove the battery. Remove the two bolts from the battery side. After that, put your hand through the gap of the light and remove the lower bolt. Now when you disconnect the retractable connector and the bulb connector, the light will come off. This is the retractable assembly. Don’t forget to remove this linkage to remove the motor. The link ball can be removed by levering it. Continue to repair of retractable headlight motor.
This is an explanation of how to remove the front bumper of Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VII. It’s pretty easy if you can separate the undercover. The procedure is from the state where the clip of the undercover is removed. The reason why the license plate is removed in the photo is because the photo processing is troublesome. You can remove it with the license plate attached. Remove the 10mm bolt in the corner of the intercooler duct. There are two symmetrically opposite sides, so a total of two. Remove the clip and 10mm bolt on the top of the bumper. This is also symmetrical with 2 clips and 2 bolts. Remove the clip with a small flat-blade screwdriver. Remove one 10mm bolt and two clips at the bottom inside the wheel hood. The same applies to the inside of the wheel hood on the opposite side. Before removing it, if you turn the steering wheel and let the tires escape before removing it, you can secure space and work faster. Since there is a part that is inserted in the fender, pull it down a little and separate it. After that, pull it straight out to complete the removal of […]
When it became cold and I started the engine, the roaring noise became terrible for a while, and I was riding in a deception by changing the power steering oil, but since the power steering tank was full of bubbles, I decided to replace the pump for the time being. I think the cause of cavitation is that it has sucked in air, but I don’t know where it came from, and apparently there is no oil leakage. In any case, Subaru’s hydraulic pumps of this age seem to have troubles over the years, including the Legacy, so I’m thinking of replacing them with rebuilt pumps to see the improvement in symptoms. First of all, I got a rebuilt pump, but my GDA power steering pump is a model called 34430FE041, which seems to be out of stock in the rebuilt market. I had a little trouble buying it online (34430FE041 seems to be common with 040, 070 and 071). At the same time, I ordered two hoses connected to the power steering tank that could be easily replaced and a metal gasket on the high pressure side that connects to the pump and prepared them. Return hose 34611FE050Suction hose […]
Preparing for work Here’s a summary of what you need to change Supra’s mission oil. Mission oil 2L 17mm socket or combination wrench (It requires a lot of torque, so it should be as long as possible) Spinner handle, ratchet wrench, etc Stainless steel pipe with an inner diameter of around 10 mm (Use with a combination wrench) Liquid gasket Oil suction equipment such as suction gun Creeper (Convenient if you have) Waste oil processing box Paper waste Disposable vinyl gloves Work gloves Brake cleaner Hydraulic jack and rigid rack Lowdown slope How to change the transmission oil The yellow circle on the right side of the photo is the oil inlet, and the yellow circle on the bottom is the oil drain. Since the standard amount of mission oil for Supra is 1.8L, you can work by preparing 2L of mission oil. At least the front must be jacked up when changing. After jacking up, be sure to use a rigid rack as a safety measure. (The 5MT W58 mission uses 2.6L of oil, and the 6MT V160 or V161 mission uses 1.8L of oil.) Now, I will explain the flow of mission oil change. First, run your Supra […]
