It was a part that I hesitated so far, but I attached it because it was available at a low price. It is a crank pulley made by ZERO / SPORT. Remove the battery terminal and remove the area around the air cleaner to secure space. Originally, a special tool is required, but it can be done without it. You can lock the crank by putting the gear in 6th gear (5th gear) and applying the side brake. (MT car) As an aside, if it’s an FF car, it’s okay if someone steps on the brakes. Extend the ratchet handle with a pipe (700mm) and apply force to loosen the pulley bolts. Since the drive system is twisted, it is difficult to apply torque for a moment, but it loosened after several attempts. If you want to use a breaker bar, you need 600mm or more. If you can do it so far, it seems that the work is almost finished. Hook a tool on the tensioner bolt and apply force to turn it clockwise to loosen the belt, so remove it as it is. Remove the genuine pulley. Replace the O-ring with a new one. Bolt the lightweight pulley. […]
The rear seats will be removed to reduce weight when driving on the circuit. Putting myself in my car and riding three people is only a few times, so there is no particular problem. As for the noise, I always knocked down the rear seat to make it look like a 2-seater, so the sound does not change so much even if the road noise becomes a little louder. I hope the fuel economy will also improve. First of all, how to remove the seat. Remove the white circle bolt with a 10 mm socket wrench. (Tightening torque 13N • m) Next, lift the white circle and push the arrow down. Then it will come off. Next is the backrest. First, tilt the backrest and remove the trunk board. Since there is a clip in the part of the picture, you can pull it out, or you can leave the clip on the car side and remove it from the seat as shown in the picture. There are 3 clips in the white circle. Remove the clip and turn it over to see the bolt. Remove it with a 12 mm socket. The photo is on the right side, but […]
Before disconnecting the steering wheel, first disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Next, if you look at the red circle in the photo from the side, there is a hole. Insert a flat-blade screwdriver there to unlock the airbag. (3 places) Yes, the airbag has come off. It’s easy. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the airbag terminal slightly to remove it. Now, let’s remove the steering wheel. Loosen the center bolt and pull it while pushing and pulling it back and forth and left and right with the bolt slightly applied. The bolt is pretty stiff. The steering has come off. Install the airbag canceller and horn terminals. Attach the steering boss and insert the wiring inside. Make sure that the triangle mark on the boss is on top. Connect the wiring of the horn and attach the steering to complete. After that, connect the battery and check if the navigation starts and if the airbag warning light goes out.
It’s not a big deal, but it’s a work memo. I removed the roof antenna to do something a little this time. If you know how to remove it, you can remove it in 5 minutes. It took me 15 minutes by trial and error. First, remove the three push-type clips that are fixed to the top of the rear glass. If you remove these three clips, you can flip the interior a little and insert your hand through the gap to remove the antenna. There is no need to remove the interior of the C-pillar. This time, I had a hard time removing this push-type clip. If you know the structure, it’s easy to remove. Insert something like a flat-blade screwdriver into the gap between the white and black parts and pry it to unlock it. Remove the hexagon nut-shaped special screw with a monkey wrench or the like. After that, you can remove the antenna by pushing the plastic tab of the red circle and pulling it out from the outside. The work is completed.
About a month has passed since the car was delivered as a used car. From the beginning, I was worried about the abnormal noise from the rear while driving, such as when starting, stopping, or overcoming steps. Possible causes are … 1. I don’t know about Subaru, but the deterioration of the stabilizer link, which is common in Honda cars, etc2. Loose bolts including the upper mount3. The trunk striker is hitting somewhere4. Loads including genuine jacks I tried and errored considering the above causes, but no improvement was made. When the coil spring expands and contracts, a force in the direction of rotation is generated, and I thought that the deviation would generate noise, but it seems to be wrong. When I unload the luggage in the trunk and put your weight on it like straddling a spare tire and shake the car body up and down, the noise is generated. It is a photograph of the rear shock absorber. I tried cleaning the damper part, thinking that the damper was not moving well and there was a sound that would get caught in the seal when it was activated. For cleaning, jack up (you don’t have to remove […]
When it became cold and I started the engine, the roaring noise became terrible for a while, and I was riding in a deception by changing the power steering oil, but since the power steering tank was full of bubbles, I decided to replace the pump for the time being. I think the cause of cavitation is that it has sucked in air, but I don’t know where it came from, and apparently there is no oil leakage. In any case, Subaru’s hydraulic pumps of this age seem to have troubles over the years, including the Legacy, so I’m thinking of replacing them with rebuilt pumps to see the improvement in symptoms. First of all, I got a rebuilt pump, but my GDA power steering pump is a model called 34430FE041, which seems to be out of stock in the rebuilt market. I had a little trouble buying it online (34430FE041 seems to be common with 040, 070 and 071). At the same time, I ordered two hoses connected to the power steering tank that could be easily replaced and a metal gasket on the high pressure side that connects to the pump and prepared them. Return hose 34611FE050Suction hose […]
