It seems that the oil filter (element) of S2000 is often loosened. I haven’t loosened it until now, but since I’m doing Gymkhana, I decided to make it as insurance. Regarding the hose band, the specifications are different, 64Φ when using an element made by an outside company and 79Φ when using a genuine element. Prepare a hose band that matches the element to be used. The material is made of stainless steel. I chose stainless steel wire (1Φ) as the wire. This also serves as a rust preventive measure. The L-shaped angle is fastened together with the spool valve. Since the bolt is 6 mm, prepare an angle that matches it. There is no problem even if you do not attach the spring snap. I just thought it would be easier to make it removable during maintenance. At first, I was planning to use the commercially available angle as it is, but I felt awkward, so I bought a suitable hardware again and bent it. Tighten the angle together with the spool valve. After connecting to the angle with a spring snap, fix the oil filter and you’re done. I don’t think it is necessary to stretch the wire […]
It is necessary to acquire the revolution signal when installing a tachometer, etc., but we will introduce a method to acquire it without cutting the ECU wiring. According to the Defi connection guide, the TA signal can be taken out from the “engine revolution detection coupler”. This time it is AP2 type. So, this is the S2000 engine revolution detection coupler. Describes where the coupler is located. Looking at the lower right (fender side) of the brake master, the vehicle harness passes from the bulkhead. There is a coupler with only one blue line coming out of it. It’s hard to find because it’s covered with a rubber cap and fixed to the harness with vinyl tape, but you’ll find it if you look closely. It is located between the master back and the ABS unit. The good thing about the engine revolution detection coupler is that it is not used at all because it is for maintenance, and even if the wire breaks for some reason, nothing is connected, so there is no problem with running. For connection, it is easy to insert it directly into the coupler and extend it. If you use the male terminal of the […]
There is nothing wrong with the tail lens, but in consideration of the model year, the gasket was replaced before the lens was flooded. I forgot to take a picture, but the part numbers of the gaskets are as follows. Please note that the product numbers are different on the left and right.Right: 33502-S2A-A11Left: 33552-S2A-A11 Part of the interior of the trunk will be removed. It is not necessary to remove all of them, just remove them by turning over only the area around the tail lens. The lens is fixed with 4 nuts. Work is easier with a 10mm deep socket. Be careful not to forget to remove the couplers. The nut at the back has a clip to fix the wiring, so remove it by interior remover. It is very dirty when the lens body is removed. While replacing the gasket, also clean it. The car body side is also quite dirty. Mud stains can cause rust, so it’s best to keep them as clean as possible. Install a new gasket. The side with double-sided tape is the lens side. It will recover in the reverse order. Actually, I didn’t know the tightening torque of this nut, so […]
When the body color of S2000 is white, the water stains on the parts that are not normally removed are conspicuous. After maintaining the area around the tail lens, I worked around the high mount stop lamp. The high mount stop lamp is fixed with 5 nuts. Like the tail lens, it uses a 10mm deep socket. Since the tightening torque was unknown here as well, I measured it with a torque wrench, but it seems that this is also 10 Nm. Only the nut in the center does not allow tools to enter, so I removed the actuator attached to the trunk striker and then accessed it. The actuator has been fixed with two screws. This is a terrible stain. The mud stains are also terrible, so I had a hard time cleaning it. The scale is also stubborn, so I used the compound carefully. After cleaning. It became like this. The high mount stop lamp side was also quite dirty. Since the gasket could not be separated, I cleaned it with a rag. I’m a little worried if it will leak if reused. I was able to clean this much. Return in reverse order. Be careful not to […]
I sometimes hear that the side parking does not work for Honda cars, not just the S2000. If you feel that adjusting the wire tension by adjusting the parking brakes does not improve at all, try this method. Surprisingly, this often improves. Be sure to chock the wheels before starting, as the parking brakes will remain released for some time. Remove the shift knob and remove the center panel. There are hazards and roof switches so don’t forget to remove the coupler. The wire can be found by looking through the hole containing the “yellow cord” in the photo. Leave the parking lever as it is and loosen the wire as much as possible. In this state, pulling the lever will not work at all, so make sure that the car does not move. The photo is in a fully loosened state. Then jack up, remove the rear tires, and remove the calipers. The caliper bolts may be stuck, so it will be easier in the future if you treat them with anti-seizure agent when you remove them. After removing the caliper, fully return the piston. The fluid will return to the master, so make sure it doesn’t overflow. The […]
This article is a continuation of the article on replacing ABS Part 1 (Unit Edition). For this ABS replacement, the modulators of other models were diverted. Harness kits are sold by various shops if it is a modulator for the latter model of NSX, and I think that there is almost no trouble with coupler on, but of course this can not be used as it is because the wiring is different. Harness kits are also quite expensive, and considering the time and effort of using them to replace wiring, I decided to make all of them. Therefore, one point is that when you buy a second-hand modulator of another model, you should buy not only the main body but also the one with the wiring cut in the middle as shown in this image. If it is only the main body, it will be necessary to obtain a coupler separately, and the hurdle will rise at once. If it’s just the main body, it’s rolling at a price like free. Access the ALB control unit by removing the glove box, air conditioning duct, and floor panel on the passenger side. I will remove this because it is no longer […]
This article is a continuation of the article on removing ALB (Anti-Lock Brake). We have prepared in advance the genuine parts required for ABS replacement. Other than those that can be diverted from ALB, mainly brake piping, modulator brackets, proportioning valves, bolts, etc. First of all, I assembled around the modulator using the bracket etc. removed from ALB. I polished the things to be reused and got rid of a little dull, but it’s more difficult. It’s finally plumbing. This is a photo of the front right, but I will insert new piping from here. I could hardly see the tip of the pipe under the master back, and there was a pipe that was quite squeaky, so it was difficult to decide in what direction to put it in, so I had a hard time. After trial and error, it was settled. It seems that the pipe for the left front will never be attached as it is in terms of layout, so bend the part that enters the tire house, pass it through, and then return it to the original angle. After that, install two rear pipes and bolt them in two places with the original fixing brackets. […]
ALB(Anti-Lock Brake) is an old-fashioned ABS installed in the early model NSX. This work is based on the assumption that it will be replaced with a late model ABS. The infamous ALB had been working fine until now, fortunately or unfortunately. However, from about two months ago, the compressor rang frequently, probably because the pressure could not be accumulated well, and the ALB suddenly stopped working during the previous circuit run, so the new tires became useless in an instant. Finally, I lifted my heavy waist and decided to replace it with ABS and prepared the parts, but for some reason it seems to be working normally these days. It was as if ALB was begging for “Don’t replace”. First, remove the spare tire bracket to remove the blower fan. After that, shift the duct for taking in outside air and remove the couplers in three places. Then remove the upper two bolts and the lower two bolts, and shake the blower fan toward you to remove it. Then remove the battery. Now you are ready to remove the old pipe. I don’t use the old pipe anymore, so I will cut it with a clipper without hesitation. An incident […]
Take measures against rain leaks in advance. Civic EK9 leaks often come in through cracks in the roof seams. First, remove the roof molding. The rear side can be easily removed by sliding it to the front of the car body. Even so, it’s dirty. When I remove the dirt, there are still slight cracks. The roof of this car has been replaced once, but it still cracks in a few years. Apply a metamorphic silicone caulking. It’s a part hidden by the roof molding, so it’s suitable. Caulking was smoothed with fingers. After that, it seems that there are many intrusions from the hinge part at the base of the rear hatch. After all there is a slight crack around the hinge. Hmm? There are also fine cracks here. I also piled up metamorphic silicone caulking and smoothed it with my fingers. I just want to prevent leaks.
Replace the fuel filter that you think has not been replaced for a long time. The current mileage is 160,000 km. Before starting work, I removed the fuse just in case to release the fuel pressure. It is quicker to remove the intake pipe than to struggle in a small space. Place a waste cloth under the filter in case of gasoline overflow. The fuel filter used is Monotaro. Two copper washers are also included. First, loosen the flare nut on the lower side. A flare nut wrench of 14mm is required as it is fairly tight. Gasoline will leak, so tighten it lightly. After loosening the upper union bolt, loosen and remove it with 2 bolts and 1 nut on the bracket, 10 mm. It is easier to have a universal joint and a deep socket. The figure which removed the whole bracket. It smells so bad because it leaks a lot of gasoline. The plastic bracket to which the mysterious hose is connected has crumbled. Old and new fuel filters. I like black like genuine. Insert a new copper washer above and below the union bolt and tighten it tightly. Start the engine, check that there are no […]
