Skyline R33 GT-R How to Replace the Throttle Position Sensor

Recently, intermittent fuel injection during engine braking has recurred. I thought it might be because I had fixed it when I turned off O2 feedback before, but it seems different. There is also a flutter when the accelerator is suddenly stepped on, and it seems that the deterioration of the sensor is the cause when examining various things.

Part number: 22620-05U01
It’s a reasonable price of $ 50. Is it because it is also used in other models? This sensor has the following two functions, and the coupler on the main body side is the throttle valve switch.
・ Throttle sensor (voltage change due to throttle amount)
・ Throttle valve switch (ON / OFF switch for idle judgment)

First of all, the hose is an obstacle to turning the bolt, so pull it out.

Remove the bolt by turning it with a 7 mm spanner or a + screwdriver.

Remove the coupler on the main unit and the coupler with the cable. The coupler on the main unit has a pin to prevent it from coming off, so remove it.

You can see the shaft by removing the sensor. There is a notch so you can see it when installing.

There is also a notch on the sensor side.

For adjustment with Power FC / D JETRO, lightly tighten the bolts and connect the coupler with the cable. Measure the resistance with the wiring in the center and below the coupler of the main body, and when the accelerator is OFF, the resistance rises (contact ON), and when the throttle is opened a little, the position where the resistance is 0 (contact OFF) is finely adjusted by rotating the sensor body. When the throttle is off at that time, the throttle voltage is the specified value of 0.5V, but I don’t care because the throttle voltage of D JETRO is used only for throttle correction. My car had a MIN of about 0.49V and a MAX of about 3.8V. In the case of genuine ECU, it seems that the idle judgment can be adjusted by adjusting to 0.5V first and removing the coupler for a few seconds when the engine is idle.

Let’s look at the old sensor. When I measure the resistance, it seems that it is ON / OFF, but when I turn it, I feel that it is ON / OFF, but the old one does not feel it at all. Probably, the contact was worn out and the contact was poor, and the idle state was repeatedly turned on and off.

I confirmed it in the actual run. It seems that it changes a little when the engine is started, and the fuel cut at the time of engine braking did not enter probably because it was adjusted at the limit. It seems better to turn on the idle switch when the throttle moves slightly.